Common Canny® Collar Questions

The slip line comes off my dog’s nose – what do I do?

The most common reason for this is that the yellow plastic guider on the Canny Collar slip line is not positioned under your dog’s chin. Ensure that you have pulled the slip line through the guider and that your dog doesn’t have a piece of yellow plastic on the side of his face (or on top of his head!).

Another possible reason is walking with too long a lead. The lead should be kept short but loose. An extendable lead or similar piece of dog training equipment is not recommended for use with the Canny Collar.

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My dog doesn’t want to walk – what can I do?

The Canny Collar can be used in conjunction with common positive reinforcement dog training methods such as clicker training or food based reward training, which will help get your dog’s interest and encourage him to walk. By lowering your height and giving vocal praise and/or a food incentive, your dog can be encouraged to begin walking with his Canny Collar.

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I have a short-nosed breed such as a Boxer or Pug?

We have had a great deal of positive feedback about the Canny Collar from Boxer owners who have been delighted to find a piece of dog training equipment they can finally use to walk their dog. As the fitting depends on neck size, this simply means there is a little less slip line behind the head on a Boxer than there would be for other breeds, but the fit is not a problem. Pugs are a little trickier as mostly they have virtually no nose! For those that have a slightly longer nose, the Canny Collar would work but if in doubt, invest in a body harness.

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I want to eventually train my dog to walk on a conventional collar and lead?

The Canny Collar can indeed be used to train your dog to eventually walk on a regular collar and lead if this is what you wish. To achieve this, try walking your dog on the Canny Collar with the slip line over his nose for a two week period. Then, walk him/her for perhaps five minutes one day with the slip line on his nose and then remove it, pulling the excess slip line out at the back of his neck, turning the collar into a conventional lead and collar arrangement, for five minutes more.

If he begins to walk well, you are on your way to training him. You can then alternate between the two arrangements, gradually ‘weaning’ him off having the slip line on his nose. If he doesn’t respond well to this, he will need a further period of keeping the slip line permanently on his nose before again trying the ‘alternating’ method of walking him.

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I want to walk two dogs at once using a Canny Collar?

We recommend for two dogs, that you walk both on the same side which will make it easier to control them using a Canny Collar. If using a standard length lead (4-6 ft) and walking your dogs on the left, this would mean holding the handle of the lead in your right hand and the part closest to the clip in your left. The dog on the outside will have slightly more lead than the dog on the inside but both dogs should have their leads so that they are short but loose ie. that there is just enough slack so that as soon as one pulls, he/she feels the pressure of the collar tightening.

With the leads in this position, only the dog that started to pull would feel any pressure and it would allow the second dog, if he wasn’t pulling, to enjoy the benefits of walking on a loose lead and feeling no pressure.

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My dog has vertebral neck problems?

If your dog has vertebral neck problems, our recommendation would be not to use any type of training device that fits around your dog’s head. There are many harnesses on the market which would be more suitable for your dog.

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My dog is still pulling on the lead! What should I do now?

When using the Canny Collar, it is important that your dog realises that at some point during the walk, the collar will loosen and if he is a persistently bad puller this may not be happening. One tip would be to let out your lead when walking and allow him some way ahead of you and then, whilst still watching him, turn quickly and walk around in the complete opposite direction, taking good care not to yank his head when you turn. This will put him immediately behind you and give you some distance ahead of him before he then tries to pass you again and pull. Once he does pass you, turn again immediately and repeat the process, continuing to turn when he passes you. He should begin to look at you and try to anticipate when you are going to turn in order to stay ahead but the best place to watch you from is just behind your leg. And this is ideally where you would like him to be on a walk.

When you have a very persistent puller, often it is best to try not to control them immediately with the collar, but to get them used to wearing it and give them plenty of vocal praise when they begin to walk without trying to remove it and when they are behind you. The exercise described above is intended to take away the worst of the initial pulling but should only be done in bursts of three or four minutes maximum as it will be both physically and mentally demanding for both of you.

Once you begin to get some control/acceptance, then try using the collar to control as per the instructions to stop pulling. Without the hard, initial & tiring (for you both!) pulling, you should be able to apply pressure when he does pull and release when he stops. Dogs generally will only walk well if their lead/collar is loose and he needs to know it will loosen at some point. Once he experiences it loosening, he will realise that by walking in this position, it is more comfortable and the yellow plastic guider should then sit underneath his muzzle in the correct, relaxed position.

 

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